the never ending project. 71 super build

Looks good! Did you use an air brush?
I wonder If you use one for painting the bodies of your model cars (which turned out great) too?

yeap airbrushed it. not ideal for a job like this (i should be using a detail gun), it shoots the paint just fine, but struggles to shoot the clear cause it's thicker. but it gets the job done.
same airbrush i use on models and RC bodies. Iwata HP-CS.

and the windshield is back in. the more windows i put in the more i like the look of the cal-look rubber.

alright, window project is done

so progress has been made! i ordered a 1600 long block with C20 cam from SCAT today. 8-) it's about 8 weeks out, that gives me time to flush the fuel system, find the cooling system, get a clutch and some new tires, and check the breaks. hell if im lucky ill be driving my bug again by Halloween.

Super_Randy wrote:

hell if im lucky ill be driving my bug again by Halloween.

Wow, that would be a huge thing! I'd love to watch your build progress, be sure to post some pics!

was thinking about it last night and decided im going to use all the new engine tin iv been collecting. so it'll be all nice and new and have no heating ducts on the shroud. also SCAT sells a duel solex carb kit for sub $400 that im highly thinking of getting when i go to pick up the long block.
i was pricing tires this morning. my parents still owe me a set of rear tires as part of my high school graduation present (i graduated in 2001 lol).

currently im trying to finish a couple other minor non VW related projects (an RC car and a model car) to clear off the workbench so i have space and can get to my tool box.

my mind is going a million miles an hour right now, trying to stay mellow so i can think straight.

Hey Randy, this is truly fantastic news!
Would be too cool to see that yellowjacket back on the road! 8-)

i got the workbench cleared off and started digging through my stash. can't find a few things that im 99% sure iv got. but i found everything else. no pic cause its just a new shroud and tin work scattered all over the workbench and garage.

could have sworn i had new heater box tin. can't find it. also swore i had a chrome generator pully nut. anyone have any guesses where they are? :lol:

Super_Randy wrote:

... anyone have any guesses where they are? :lol:

Yes, like me, you put it somewhere safe.

Super_Randy wrote:

... new shroud and tin work scattered all over the workbench and garage.
could have sworn i had new heater box tin. can't find it. also swore i had a chrome generator pully nut. anyone have any guesses where they are? :lol:

Just let that still-life rest for a while... Let it's exceptional layout sink in... Take a deep breath... Relax...

Ommmmmmm....

:lol:

just a minor update.
just put the car on jackstands. the wheels still spin free (a little dragging on the right rear, but non enough for me to be concerned) the peddle still feels like it should, and nothing appears to be leaking. so i think the breaks are good to go(still might go ahead and crack the bleeders just for good measure). hopefully this next week ill pick up tires. and maybe a clutch, idk we'll see how froggy im feeling.

currently trying to figure out what carbs i want. thinking of just using duel solex's cause they're cheaper, but im tired of being a cheapskate and i really want 40IDF's. this has me looking into carb linkages, coil mounts, and distributors, fuel pumps and regulators, and fuel line routing.

and for what it's worth, jacking up a lowered bug with flat tires is a pain in the ass!

Super_Randy wrote:

... the peddle still feels like it should, and nothing appears to be leaking. so i think the breaks are good to go ...

Care for some fresh brake fluid?
I change it on my Bug every two years.

wanting new fluid and wanting to do the work required for new fluid are 2 different things :lol:
plus the stock drums are temporary at this point. it'll be getting 4 wheel disc probably sometime next year and i can flush the system then.

don't you have to change the brake fluid in Germany every few years to pass inspection? heard that somewhere, not sure if it's true or not.

in the ever continuing progress. iv been cleaning and polishing the wheels. it's been at least 6 years sense i did that last. they're rustier than i thought, but are cleaning up pretty good with Turtle Wax and aluminum foil. maybe ill post a pic later.

edit:
a crappy cellphone pic of the wheels. the one on the right the worst offender and came out decent. i did get lazy and didn't clean the grease out of the hubs, but whatever, grease prevents rust and its hidden behind a hub cap. ...and i still have to polish... ...after find them...

Super_Randy wrote:

wanting new fluid and wanting to do the work required for new fluid are 2 different things

Duh! Tell me about it!! :D I hate brake fluid! :evil:

Super_Randy wrote:

don't you have to change the brake fluid in Germany every few years to pass inspection?

No they don't check the moisture content in Germany.
They do in Austria and if it exceeds a specific threshold value the car fails the inspection AFAIK.

Super_Randy wrote:

iv been cleaning and polishing the wheels. it's been at least 6 years sense i did that last. they're rustier than i thought, but are cleaning up pretty good with Turtle Wax and aluminum foil.

Looking good!

soooo.... my long block is ready for pick up. so ill be knocking out of work a bit early hopefully Monday to go get it 8-)

and i still haven't bought tires... :shock:

also i need to remember to see about buying a clutch when i pick up the engine.

8-)

Wow, what an exciting stage of your build! We need more pics and info :)

probably won't have any pic's until this weekend. it's one of the zero mile long blocks form SCAT you see advertised in Hot VW's. C20 cam, 1.1:1 rockers. going to be running stock carb for now, will put 40 IDF's on it sometime early next year. nothing fancy, just wanted something dead nuts reliable with a little more power than stock. although given the condition of my last engine it'll probably feel like a race car :lol:

edit. ok, you talked me into opening it up ;)

then i took a stab at slapping on some tin work and crank pully (need to strip the paint or powder coat off the inside of the pully)

Super_Randy wrote:

need to strip the paint or powder coat off the inside of the pully

:?: :?: :?:

SCAT wrote:

STANDARD DIAMETER HARD ANODIZED LASER-ENGRAVED SCAT BILLET VW DEGREE PULLEY

So there should be no paint or powder coat...

I'm not a fan of sanding these parts. Check the woodruff key and compare the oil thread against a stock pulley (if at hand).
Warming up the hub a bit may help. The pulley should slide on the crank by hand far enough for the bolt to reach the threads.
Then tighten the bolt... It should push the pulley down with little effort.
A Samba thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=701249
There may be additional Samba topics dealing with aftermarket pulley problems.

A puller is needed to remove the pulley in either case stock or aftermarket.

By the way... I tried a similar SCAT pulley and it's oil thread was crap.

seems kinda thick for anodizing. all i did was take a wire wheel in a dremel and clean it out. it went from not wanting to go on at all, to going on deep enough to "tap" into place with a rubber mallet until the bolt could be threaded. the woodruff key fit fine, it's a snug slip fit.
idk, that's how i remember my original German pully fitting my old engine.

aftermarket tinwork sucks. you have to make it fit. violence, tinsnips and a file are required

edit.
well i got this far. can't find my fuel pump, fuel pump rod, fuel pump mount spacer thing, intake manifold ends. but i did get the tin work fitting pretty decent. no gaps, should work like its suppose to

ok, add the hard fuel line that runs around the fan shroud to the list of things i can't find.

but i may have remembered where the intake manifolds are. but i was being attacked by mosquitos so i closed up shop for the day.

Don't forget the little clip in tins that sit underneath the cylinders. I used to forget installing those all the time.

schwim wrote:

Don't forget the little clip in tins that sit underneath the cylinders.

He has got a long block so SCAT should have installed them.
We call them "Idiotenbleche" over here by the way.

But there are two more "idiot tins" and IMHO there's a good chance they're missing at the (aftermarket) heads...

Randy, good luck with your (epic) quest for missing engine components.
And beware the bridge of death! Unless you are familiar with the airspeed of all sorts of swallows of course! :D

engine came with these installed

and some tin pieces (pre heat air deflectors and heater box tin) don't fit because of it. im assuming they replace the parts that don't fit (?)

edit:
found the intake manifold ends! they were not even close to being where i thought they were. i thought they were up in the rafters with some of my RC car stuff. they were actually in a box on an old tool box, under the workbench. i had completely forgotten i had a stash of parts under there. also found a set of German rods, a German oil pump, sump plate and strainer, and 2 sets of 85mm pistons/cylinders! so yeah, i got that going for me.
still no idea where the fuel pump and rod are thought